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芭蕉には実芭蕉(バナナ)、花芭蕉、糸芭蕉があり、このうち糸芭蕉が芭蕉布の原料となります。野生のままでは繊維が硬くなるので栽培し、手入れをしたものを使うそうです。 There are three kinds of basho(plantain) ; fruitbearing one, flowery one and fibrous one.The latter one is used for textile. The fiber of the wild basho tree is too hard , so they plant ones with a great care. |
| 工程 Process |
作業内容 How |
写真とコメント Photos and coments |
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| １ |
苧倒し Cutting down the basho tree |
10月から2月頃芭蕉を刈り取る。 The best season for cutting is between October and February. |
 糸芭蕉は一度植えれば地下茎で増え続け、数十年は植え替える必要がないのですが、最初の3〜4年は粗い繊維しか取れないといいます。The root of basho for textile multiplies and ther is no need of replanting for dozenas of years. |
| 2 | 苧剥ぎ Separating the skins |
根元から先に向かって1枚ずつ剥ぎ、外側から、外皮、中皮、内皮、芯の4種類に分けられる。内皮が着物の生地になる。 The skins are stripped off from the base to the tip.The skins are classified into four parts; outer ones,middle ones,inner ones and core ones. The inner ones are used for kimono. |
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| 3 |
苧炊き Boiling |
4種類の繊維を別々に灰汁で数時間炊く。 The skin of each class is boiled in the water with ash lye for several hours.The skin of each class must be boiled separately from the others. |
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| 4 | 苧引き Scraping the skin |
炊き上がった繊維を水で洗って灰汁を落とし、竹の道具でしごく。その後乾燥し、チングいう玉状に巻いておく。 The boiled skin is cleaned in the water and scraped with a tool made of bamboo.After that the skin is dried and wound up in the ball-like form called"chingu″. |
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| 5 | 苧績み Joining the fibers |
チングを湿らし、繊維を目的の太さに裂いて、繋いでゆく。芭蕉布では機結びで繋ぐことが多い。 The chingu ball is dipped in the water and the skin is devided into the needed thickness.Then the ends of two fibers are tied in "hata-musubi″wｈich is often used for weaving. |
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| 6 | 撚りかけ Twisting the string |
経糸は糸車で撚りを掛ける。緯糸は撚りを掛けずに管に巻く。 The warp yarn is twisted with the twister wheel.The weft is wound like the photo right. |
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| 7〜 | 整経、製織、等 Warping, weaving,etc. |
目的により、工程が異なります。 The process depends on the aimed item. |